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Pearls and Skin Tones


Many people, when shopping for pearls, ask which colors best suit their skin tone. But it is important to note that one of the great attributes of pearls is their ability to flatter nearly every wearer. Therefore, when choosing pearls, your personal preference should be of utmost concern, given that it is nearly impossible not to have your look positively enhanced by pearl jewelry.

That being said, the general consensus is that lighter pearls – such as those which are white, rose, or peach in color – tend to look best on those with fair skin. This would include the beautiful white South Sea pearls, which have a soft and creamy color which reflects light beautifully and naturally illuminates the skin.

Darker complexions are better suited for gold or cream-colored pearls. Golden pearls against brown skin can be breathtaking. White pearls with silver overtones look beautiful on those with olive colored skin.

Tahitian pearls, on the other hand, look lovely on everyone. Their varying shades of gray to dark green bring out the best in all skin tones and complement most hair colors and styles.

Again, however, you should not be concerned if you are attracted to a different color of pearl than what might commonly be thought of as “your” color. Truthfully, an unattractive pearl color on a woman has yet to be seen. Therefore, what matters most is how you feel in your pearls, and how wearing them affects your confidence. When you look at the pearls, are you drawn to them? If so, then the simple answer is that wearing them will make you happy, and this confidence is what will be noticed, not the color of your strand.

Below is a little guide, though, in pairing pearl overtones with skin tones. I think you will be inspired!

Pearl Overtones and our skin!

The three most common overtones you’ll encounter are for white pearls: Rose, Silver and Cream. These three overtones will be the same for white Japanese Akoya, white Freshwater and White South Sea pearls, although their degrees of intensity will vary from pearl to pearl. Classic White Japanese Akoya pearls are easily the most popular cultured pearl type of all, so we’ll start there. Silver is the most popular white pearl overtone. Closest to a true, bright white color, the Silver overtone comes the closest to what most people believe a pearl ”should” look like. Who Will Love It: Women with dark or olive complexions, or those who tan easily. Women with black or dark brunette hair also wear the Silver overtone well. Why They’ll Love It: The bright white body and “cooler” undertones (primarily shades of blue and green) of the Silver pearl overtone contrasts the darker skin tones and hair colors and helps these pearls optically enlarge to appear larger, brighter and whiter. Recommended Pairings: The Silver overtone is really versatile, and looks beautiful with both white gold and yellow gold accents. White gold will generally enhance the pearl’s “cool” undertones, helping them appear brighter and whiter. Yellow gold creates a nice, elegant contrast – a very classic pearl look. Rose is the most Traditional White Pearl Overtone. Rose (or rosé as it is also called) features a faint to deep pink blush of color over the white body color of the pearl. Who Will Love It: Women with fair complexions, blondes and light to medium-dark brunettes. Why They’ll Love It: Rose is a “warm” overtone, so yellow and faint pink undertones to the skin and lots of warm highlights like yellow gold help this pearl light up and sparkle! Recommended Pairings: Yellow gold is traditionally chosen for this pearl overtone; it warms up the pearls and increases that special sparkle factor. White gold is chosen often for younger ladies who prefer the cooler tones. White gold with rose overtones cools the pearls down, helping to mute the pink hues in the pearl surfaces. Cream/Ivory is the Third Most Popular Overtone. And my personal favorite! Cream is best described as a hint of French Vanilla over the white body color of the pearl. Who Will Love It: Cream is an excellent choice for red heads, older women with grey or silver hair and those of us who blush easily or have a lot of pink/red undertones to their complexions. Why They’ll Love It: The cream pearl overtone is a “warm” overtone that compliments rather than contrasts with pinks and reds; these pearls will warm up against the deeper complexions and sparkle nicely. The finest Cream overtones feature flashes of violet color, and add a nice sense of “depth” to the pearl’s surface. Recommended Pairings: Yellow Gold all the way, babe! Cream/Ivory is one of those overtones that’s definitely on the warmer side (lots of yellow in there!), so you want to complement this hue, not fight with it. White gold can be a bit on the “clashy” side unless you have the exact right shade of Cream. White Freshwater and White South Sea pearls both have the same overtone palette of Rose, Silver and Cream. For White South Sea pearls, the most common overtone you’ll find is a bright Silver, and Rose is the most rare (and valuable!). Cream can be gorgeously complex, with undertones of violet and bright flashes of magenta shimmering over the surface, so don’t count Cream out! Generally overtones for White South Sea pearls are a bit softer and less intense than that of the Japanese Akoya. With Freshwater pearls, you’ll find a lot of Creamy hues and Rose overtones in each harvest, and Silver is the least prevalent.

Black Pearl Overtones

Cultured Tahitian pearls are the naturally black pearls grown in the tropical lagoons and atolls of French Polynesia. Their primary body colors aren’t truly black, but range in color from the palest Silver and Dove Grey to Very Dark Charcoal Grey. Their secondary overtones are a literal rainbow of colors, but the most famous and popular are Peacock, Silver/Steel and Blue-Green. Other “exotic” and famous overtones are colors like Aubergine (eggplant purple), Cherry, Sky Blue, Pistachio, Chocolate and more. Peacock is a varied mix of Green, Gold and Rose hues, shimmering over either a light or dark grey body color. Who Will Love It: Everybody! The Peacock overtone is varied and beautiful – these pearls can be light-toned or dark-toned, cool or warm-hued depending on the amount of colors present on the surface. Why They’ll Love It: Lighter grey Peacock Tahitian pearls work well for blondes, or those with pink undertones as the pearls reflect greater amounts of light, and offer less contrast against skin tones that don’t handle intense colors well. Darker Peacock Tahitian pearls work beautifully for dark, tan or olive complexions, or for women with very pale complexions with dark brunette to black hair. Recommended Pairings: Depending on the colors in the pearls you want to play up, Peacock overtones can go with either white or yellow gold. White gold accents intensify the cooler end of the Peacock spectrum, enhancing the greens and hints of blue tones. Yellow gold mountings will have a warming effect on the pearls, bringing out their golden, warm green and rose hues. Silver/Steel Tahitian overtones can best be described as a Silvery-grey to pale white sheen shimmering over a light to dark Charcoal Grey body color. They can also contain hints of Rose or Aquamarine/Green that add a little splash of color to keep it interesting. Who Will Love It: Anyone will look good in Silver Tahitians, but fair complexions and blondes will benefit the most from this overtone. That goes double if she has pink or reddish undertones to her complexion and can’t handle heavy contrasting colors. Women who wear a lot of pastel shades will benefit from the diffuse colors of the Silver overtone. Why They’ll Love It: Silver Tahitians reflect the most amount of light, making the pearls appear brighter and larger than they really are. The higher rate of light reflection and the paler colors create less of a contrast Recommended Pairings: White gold clasps, bales and mountings are the obvious choice for Silver Tahitians, which are very complementary. To rev up secondary colors like Aquamarine or Rose tints, then use yellow gold accents. Blue-Green Tahitian overtones are the second most-popular and prevalent overtone for Tahitian pearls. Usually mid to strongly saturated, the blue-green overtone is a bright splash of color over a medium to dark Charcoal grey body color. Who Will Love It: Women with dark hair and pale complexions, red heads and winter complexions will dazzle in the Blue-Green Tahitian overtones. Why They’ll Love It: The darker jewel-tones of the Blue-Green overtone really have their chance to shine in high-contrast outfits and complexions. Recommended Pairings: White gold is the most popular choice to wear with blue-green overtones. White metal accents help cool down the pearls, and enhance the unique blue hues present on the pearls. Use yellow gold if you want to play up the warmer green hues on the pearls instead.

Golden South Sea Pearl Overtones

Golden South Sea pearls can be a little bit tricky for some of us. These naturally-colored pearls feature subtle overtones of Rose, Neutral Gold, Silver, Green/Bronze and Champagne*. These secondary colors shimmer over primary body colors of gold that range from paler 12K gold to the deepest (and orange-y!) 24K tones. Deeper and more intense the golden hues are more valuable than paler colors. Neutral Golden (also known as Yellow) pearl overtones are the most prevalent out of any harvest. They are a secondary, transparent tinge of gold over the primary body color of the pearl (Gold), and so appear that the pearls have no overtone at all. Who Will Love It: Just about everybody who loves Golden South Sea pearls will enjoy a Gold overtone. Why They'll Love It: The Neutral Gold overtones are the easiest to match to nearly any complexion, and allow the pearl’s natural color to really shine! Recommended Pairings: Yellow gold clasps, mountings and bales will enhance these pearls’ natural Golden tones, helping them appear brighter and richer. Rose overtones on Golden South Sea pearls are a faint blush of pink color over the main Golden body color of the pearls. Who Will Love It: Pale and fair-skinned women will be able to wear this overtone easily, as it adds a touch of warmth to the pearls and the complexion. Why They'll Love It: The Rose overtone is a ‘warm’ Golden South Sea color, which boosts the pearls’ sparkle and makes it easier to pair with a variety of complexions and outfits. Recommended Pairings: Yellow gold is the easiest and most complimentary metal to use. Green/Bronze overtones on Golden South Sea pearls are the trickiest of all to wear. They appear as a distinct greenish tinge over the golden body color of the pearl. Who Will Love It: Women with very dark skin, or those with yellow/green undertones to their complexions will be able to pull off this look the best. Why They’ll Love It: The cool undertones in their complexions will not clash with a Green/Bronze overtone, making it a complimentary color choice. That and the Green/Bronze overtone is a very unique and visually appealing overtone that is sure to capture attention! Recommended Pairings: Yellow gold is usually the best choice for this overtone combo, as it enhances the contrasting colors making for a visually striking piece of jewelry! *Champagne colored Golden South Sea pearls are not really an overtone, but more of a rare and distinct body color. The Champagne hue is a pale pinkish-peach coloring very reminiscent of a fine champagne. Who Will Love It: Blondes and light brunettes will do well with this pearl color, as well as ladies with pink or red undertones to their complexions. Why They'll Love It: The pale, pastel hues will be flattering to complexions that don’t handle heavy colors well. Recommended Pairings: This overtone/color could go either way, but usually a nice yellow gold will help warm the pearls up and enhance their sparkle. Silver overtones on Golden South Sea pearls appear as a pale sheen of white over the Golden pearl. Who Will Love It: Women who can handle cooler colors in their wardrobes, those who have tan or Mediterranean complexions. Why They’ll Love It: The Silver overtone is a bright, cool shade that enhances the pearls’ green or even blue undertones. Its great at amplifying light reflected off the surfaces of the pearls, making the pearls appear brighter and larger than their actual size. Recommended Pairings: Select white gold clasps, bales and earring mountings to amplify this effect.

Pearl Overtones on Different Skin Colors

The pictures below show the three most popular white pearl overtones of Rose, Silver and Cream on various skin tones. Pearl Overtones on Fair Skin

Pearl Overtones on Tan Skin

Pearl Overtones on Dark Skin